Category: Kitchen Services

How to Use Core Aeration

Maintaining a healthy lawn is hard, but there are a number of steps you can take to achieve this. You need to fertilize your grass, mow it at the right height, and water it regularly. But if nutrients don’t reach the soil underneath your turf, you’re going to have problems with thatch build-up and nutrient loss.

Lawn aeration helps improve drainage by removing plugs from the top layer of soil, allowing air and water in a while, helping reduce soil compaction below ground level. It also brings up minerals that were trapped beneath the soil surface into contact with roots for better absorption.

If you’re looking for ways to achieve and maintain a beautiful lawn, then this article will help you learn more about using core aeration. We’ll discuss why it’s needed and what it involves. Read on!

What is Core Aeration?

Core aeration is one of the best practices for lawn care because it improves overall health and appearance while reducing weed growth potential. The process involves using an aerator machine or core aerating tool which removes plugs from two inches deep or more depending on how long you run the machine over your lawn’s surface. This will help loosen compacted soil and allow water and air to reach the lawn’s roots better.

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What is the Best Time for Core Aeration?

For cool season grasses, core aeration should be performed in early fall or early spring. For the warm season grasses, core aeration should be done in late spring to early summer. When aeration combines with growth, grasses recover quickly and fill in areas where aerator equipment exposes soil.

When Do Lawns Need Aeration?

All lawns can benefit from core aeration, especially when the soil is compacted. Lawns in heavy shade or with thatch build up are great candidates for core aeration. Any time grass has difficulty growing or staying healthy due to compaction or poor drainage, this indicates that core aeration might be needed. Soils high in clay also benefit from core aeration.

Also, note that dethatching and aerating are two different things, although they work in handy. Thatch is the layer of decomposing organic matter that forms at the lawn surface between soil and grass. The thatch works like compaction to block the passage of air, water, and fertilizer to the roots.

Dethatching removes some grass blades while aerating opens up channels in the soil to allow air, water, and nutrients to reach grasses’ root systems. Aggressive spreading grasses like Kentucky bluegrass in northern lawns and Bermuda grass down south form more than any other grass type.

If your grass looks stressed and your soil is hard to the touch, you may have compaction problems. You can confirm that by using a simple screwdriver test. Take your regular screwdriver and stick it into your lawn’s soil by hand.

Why Core Aeration Helps Lawn

Lawns get heavy use, such as acting as neighborhood playgrounds and racetracks. Kids and pets running around the yard can also lead to soil compaction. That said, your grass roots need air, water, and nutrients to grow thick, deep, and strong. When the soil becomes compacted, it will inhibit the flow of essentials that supports thicker, healthier tuff growth.

Excess lawn thatch and heavy organic matter buried under the grass surface can also starve the grass of essential elements. Therefore, the hollow tine core aeration will help alleviate additional compaction so air, water, and nutrients can reach grass roots.

If lawn grasses are deprived of their basic needs by compacted soil, they’ll struggle, especially in stressful situations such as heat and low rainfall, thus losing their healthy, rich color. The grasses will gradually thin and die out completely. If there’s no oxygen, water and nutrients will be inches away.

Other Methods of Aerating Your Lawn

Apart from plug aerators or core aeration, there are other methods of aerating available equipment. They include:

Spike Aeration

Spike aerators have hollow tines that penetrate the soil and remove small cores of soil. Spike aeration is quick, easy to install, and can be used on lawns with little maintenance. The spikes create holes for water and nutrients by pushing soil aside.

Spike Aeration
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Slicing Aerators

These are blades attached to a wheel, which slice through the lawn’s surface. This method is similar to the spike aerators in that it also removes cores of soil from your lawn. The slices will give rise to new shoots and roots, giving rise to thicker turf.

How to Aerate Your Yard

You can find lawn aerators, power rakes, and other power equipment at your local store, hardware stores, and some big-box retailers. You can also hire lawn service from equipment rental companies and lawn and garden stores. Here’s how to aerate your lawn:

Flag Utilities

Flag utilities or other pipes loosen the soil around those with a shovel. Remove plugs from holes, then drag the aerator behind you across your lawn. With space between each pass, turn over all of the soil that was brought to the surface. Replant grass seed or transplant seedlings as desired

Time Your Aeration Right

For best results, time your aeration to coincide with your lawn’s physiological stage of development. Late summer is the best time for quick relief from compacted soil, while late spring or early fall are ideal times for lawn restoration and strengthening. Aerate when the soil is soft, like after an irrigation cycle or a recent rainfall. 

This will allow the hollow tines to penetrate the soil easily, making it easier to do their job. Hollow and solid-core aerator tines will struggle to penetrate hard, dry soil, making the process less effective.

Be Thorough

Cover your entire lawn at least once and the second time at a cross angle. Pay attention to lawn surfaces with heavy foot traffic, driveways, and sidewalks because these sections will be more compacted. If your lawn is smaller, you may only need to do it once.

Forget the myth that if you apply a pre emergent herbicide on your lawn in the spring, it will destroy your herbicide barrier. This is not always true because aeration won’t affect crabgrass control or weed prevention.

What to Do After Aerating

After aerating, if possible, combine lawn aeration with other lawn care maintenance such as fertilizing, adding soil amendments, and overseeding. Water, fertilizer, and grass seed needs to get through the lawn surface into the soil where they can start growing grass roots. After aerating your lawn, let soil plugs or extra soil dry where they fall.

What to Do After Aerating
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Core aerating will open the soil to allow water, fertilizer, and seed to move down in the soil for faster root growth. You can also help restore your lawn by application of fertilizer immediately after core aeration. Better yet, make your compost for this purpose.

FAQs on How to Use Core Aeration

When should you core aeration?

Core aeration can happen anytime, but the best time is usually in the spring and early summer or fall. It’s recommended to core aerate when there’s the most root growth.

Should you water before core aeration?

Yes, you should water one to three days before aerating. This is because the soils must be moist to help the machine penetrate through to remove soil plugs. Do not aerate overly soaked and completely dry soil because the aerator will pull out small soil cores from the lawn, which should be left to break down.

Final Thought on How to Use Core Aeration

As you can see, adding aeration to your annual task list will help you maintain your lawn and make it look more beautiful. Plus, you save money in the long run by having a healthy lawn.


The post How to Use Core Aeration appeared first on Kitchen Infinity.

Guide to Standard Drywall Sizes and Thicknesses

When building your own house or making repairs, you’ll need to decide what type of wall and ceiling surfaces you want. Drywall is widely used for interior walls and ceilings because it’s very economical and easy to install. The flat white and clean appearance makes it ideal for ceiling finishes and residential construction.

But choosing the right sizes and thicknesses for drywall isn’t an easy thing, but you definitely won’t need professional help. This guide shows different types of drywall sheets in various sizes and thicknesses. So, you can easily compare them by size, making it easier for you to choose which ones would work best for your project. Let’s get started!

Drywall Thickness

Drywall comes in 3/8″, 1/2″ and 5/8″ thicknesses or in metric 6, 9.5, or 12.7mm. Standard US drywall is 1/2″ (12.7mm) thick, while the other two are called “non-standard.” Building codes also have some requirements when it comes to standard thickness. The building code dictates the thickness of each application.

1/4 Inch-Thick Drywall

This is not very common, and it’s used as a skimming material for placing over an existing surface. You can also use these thin drywall sheets to install drywall on the slightly curved surface. If the drywall is not meeting the curve, you need to add a layer of mesh tape and compound before applying another thin sheet.

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1/2 Inch Drywall

This is the most common type of drywall used in construction, and it can be found in all building and construction material stores and outlets. Thanks to their standard thickness, the regular 1/2″ (12.7mm) sheets are suitable for interior walls. 

They’re very easy to carry and hang. It’s the most versatile board and common thickness for the 16-inch on-center interior walls. It provides a great balance between strength and weight.

5/8-Inch drywall

If your ceilings or walls require a prescribed fire-resistant rating, then this is the right drywall thickness for you. It’s a heavier product that can resist sagging in your ceilings and 24-inch wall. It’s also the thickness standard for fire-resistant or fire-code drywall, mostly found in garages. This added thickness also improves soundproofing.

Due to its excellent soundproofing qualities, 5 8 works well in bedrooms and living areas. However, you’ll have to pay more for this type of drywall than 1 2 inches thick and smaller.

3/8-Inch drywall

When you’re looking to fix drywall patches or if your drywall is damaged and worn out, this is a great drywall thickness you need to consider. It’s the best option for home remodeling projects. Note that it doesn’t offer the strength of 1/2-inch panels.

Drywall Sizes

The length and width of drywall sheets usually come in 4x. The most common ones include 4-foot by 8-foot, 4-foot by 12-foot, and 4-foot by 16-foot sheets. The building codes don’t dictate the requirements for drywall sizes. The sizes are determined by the needs of the architect, builder, and client. 

4-Foot by 8-Foot drywall

This is the most common size of drywall. It’s commonly used because it’s easy to carry. Working and installing this type of drywall is very easy. However, it’s not the best option for remodeling jobs because its small size is limiting. You can’t use this type of drywall in rooms more than 8-feet wide and 12-feet long.

A drywall board size with these dimensions together with the thickness of 1 2 makes it manageable. It’s the biggest sheet ideal for a DIY project because you can easily carry and lift it into place. It allows for both vertical and horizontal installation. 

4-Foot by 12-Foot drywall

For long and tall drywall, you can find drywall in lengths of 12 or 16 feet. So, if you have long and tall walls, go for this size of drywall. If you also want an unbroken line from floor to ceiling and prefer a smooth surface when working with a long and high wall, this is the best solution.

These longer sheets also produce fewer butt joints than 8-foot-long sheets. However, they are heavy to carry by a single person, so if you’re going to install them at your home, make sure you have people around to help you. 

2-Foot by 2-Foot drywall

This type of drywall size is best when you have small spaces. When you also need to do some patchwork around your stairs, alcove, and nooks, opt for this drywall size. It’s not the standard size of drywall, but you’ll find it at local hardware stores and home improvement stores.

lternatives to Drywall Sizes

When your wall panels come in lengths and widths instead of four feet multiples, then those are not drywall panels. They are cement board or drywall alternatives such as DRIcor Smartwall. 4-1/2-foot wide drywall sheets are not very common in the consumer market, but you can get them with special orders. They are rarely available in home improvement centers and are only used by professionals.

Types of Drywall

While standard drywall works well for bedrooms and living areas, there are other types of drywall for special purposes. Here are the types of drywall that you should consider on your next home project. They are excellent in humid areas such as bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms.

Types of Drywall
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Fire-Resistant Drywall

Fire-resistant drywall contains glass fibers and other materials, enabling them to endure flames more than any other type of drywall. You can use it in the laundry room, near furnaces, stairwells, and garage ceilings. It will help reduce flames from spreading in case of fire break out.

In addition, they enable the walls to generate less smoke and are also good for sound control. When renovating your home, the building codes will request you to use a fireboard with fiberglass in areas where you have rooms with wood studs. You’ll also be required to install this type x drywall if you have furnaces, garages, and utility rooms.

buse-Resistant Drywall

This is the type of drywall that can withstand any abuse. It has a polystyrene layer that bonds well to the non-decorative gypsum board.

Mold and Moisture-Resistant Drywall

Both mold and moisture-resistant drywall panels are paperless panels with a special coating that blocks moisture and helps prevent mold growth. So, if you’re wondering how to get rid of mold from your home, installing this drywall will be your first solution. This combination is an excellent choice for bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms. As it reduces mold, it extends the appearance and lifespan of surfaces.

Cement Board Drywall

Cement board drywall is durable drywall that’s designed to be installed on plywood or studs. It is available in 1/2-inch and 5/8-inch thicknesses. The cement board is made by sandwiching a cement core between two layers of fiberglass mat. You can use this type of drywall behind ceramic tile and marble for high moisture areas. It’s the hardest material to cut.

It’s also known as a backer board and can also be used under floors and counters. Its moisture-resistant quality makes it ideal for high-moisture areas.

Standard Sheet Drywall

This is the common type of drywall. It is ideal for residential remodeling and basements. It doesn’t have any interesting features and can be used for ceilings and residential interior walls.

Square-Edged Drywall

This type of drywall is most common, and it’s fitted into standard studs 16 inches apart. If you’re looking to plaster your ceiling or wall, here is the drywall solution for you.

Fire Code Drywall

Fire code drywall is thicker than half-inch material. It has a special gypsum core that resists heat and provides fire protection. Despite having a heavier core, it’s still easy to cut.

Tapered-Edge Sheets

This type of drywall sheet is great for finishing walls. The tapered ends allow the compound fillers between gaps.

Foil-Backed Drywall

They don’t offer much moisture resistance like moisture-resistant boards. But, it’s suitable for areas with less moisture but more for colder temperatures.

FAQS on Guide to Standard Drywall Sizes and Thicknesses

What is the best thickness of standard drywall?

Most drywall measures 1/2-inch thickness, which is the most common for interior walls. This is because they are easy to carry and hang, unlike other types of thickness.

What sizes does drywall come with?

The standard size of drywall includes 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, and 16 feet. However, 8, 12, and 16 work well for residential construction, so you’ll find it in most retail hardware stores.

Is it better to hang drywall vertically or horizontally?

Fire codes require seams to fall on the length of the framing, especially on commercial jobs, so ensure you hang your drywall horizontally. If your walls are 9 feet higher or shorter, hanging your drywall horizontally will leave you with more benefits.

Final Thought on the Guide to Standard Drywall Sizes and Thicknesses

As you can see, it’s very important to be careful when choosing drywall because choosing the wrong size and thickness can break your project. You don’t want to spend a lot of money and time on your home improvement project only to end up with losses.


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How To Refinish The Tub

A bathtub is one of the most important fixtures in your bathroom. It’s where you relax and unwind at the end of a long day, so it’s natural that you want to keep your tub looking its best. Unfortunately, a bathtub can become chipped and scratched or even corroded by hard water stains over time. This can make it look old and unattractive.

Refinishing your tub is an easy way to restore it to its original condition without having to spend thousands on replacing it with a new one. The process can be done relatively quickly depending on how large your tub is and won’t cost too much either. Most importantly, when you’re finished refinishing, your tub will look new again. 

There are several ways to refinish an old or damaged tub, including painting the surface with acrylic paint or applying the vinyl film directly over the existing surface. Here we go!

Tools and Materials

Painter’s tapePutty knifeRoller traySpongeTack clothDrop clothBreathing protectionAbrasive padRubber glovesBleachChemical caulk removerTub and tile caulkPaint rollersPaintbrushesEpoxy puttyPaper towelsAbrasive cleanersBathtub refinishing kitSafety goggles

Remove Old Caulk and Tub’s Hardware

Use a putty knife to remove old caulk and tub hardware. Remove anything that may block your work. Cover the faucets with paper towels and mask them off using painter’s tape. Scrape off soap scum with a razor blade and make sure you clean any dirt from your bathtub openings.

Clean Your Tub Thoroughly with Diluted Bleach and Water

Pour a pail of diluted bleach and warm water into your bathtub and let it sit for 10 minutes. Then, scrub the inner and outer surfaces with a sponge or an old rag to remove dirt and stains. Rinse the tub thoroughly afterward using clean water. Allow it to dry completely before you continue with your work.


Use a coarse 36-grit paper to sand the bathtub—sand in the direction of the grain to avoid gouging or scratching your bathtub surface. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust particles as you sand. After that, fill any marks in the dried fiberglass with putty and sand it. 

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Mask off the areas around your bathtub with paper or plastic before you proceed to the next step. You can rough up sanding by brushing the tub’s surface with a stainless steel brush. Make sure you neutralize the acid before applying the paint.

Wipe and Prime

Wipe the surface with a tack cloth and prime it with an acrylic urethane enamel primer. Give it enough time to dry before you apply your top coat. Follow the instructions on the can as to how much drying time is needed after priming. After wiping with a tack cloth, clean it with a rag to enable your acrylic urethane enamel to adhere to the surface of the porcelain.

Depending on room temperature and humidity conditions, you can apply several coats per day. Make sure you apply a bonding agent over the tub’s surface to ensure your new finish won’t peel off the old porcelain.

Mask off the Tub and any Remaining Fixtures

You’ll want to mask off the remaining fixtures, including the drain stopper and any faucets. Mask off floors and walls using drop cloths and painter’s tape. Remember that epoxy paint will be hard to remove, so make sure to guard your tub against drops and spills. Protect the tile at tub level and any fixture or faucet hardware with painter’s tape or paper.

Ventilate Your Working Space

The whole project of etching, sanding, and coating will create dust and fumes. In addition to the epoxy paint fumes, sanding can create fiberglass dust that can irritate your lungs and sinuses. Always work in a well-ventilated space, preferably outside or near an open window. Also, wear breathing protection or any respiratory equipment as recommended by the manufacturer.

Then, prep your paint included in the refinishing kit according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Many DIY refinishing kits use a two-part epoxy paint that needs to be mixed before use, so read the label carefully. 

Mixing faces is very important, so don’t play fast and loose with the directions. Then, transfer half of that mixture to a second container to save the second coat and cover it to keep it from drying out.

Etch the Tub Surfaces

If the refinishing kit includes etching powder, apply it to your tub’s surface with water and scrub the surface with an abrasive pad. The etching will help the refinishing sealer adhere to the surface, which will prolong the life of your newly refinished tub. Then, rinse the tub thoroughly with clear water.

Etch the Tub Surfaces
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Sand and Wipe Down the Bathtub

Skip this step if you’re refinishing an acrylic or fiberglass tub with no substantial grout lines. But you can learn how to clean fiberglass showers here and keep the material in good shape. An older bathtub with built-up gunk is likely to have crevices and ridges that need to be sanded down to provide a smooth surface for the sealer. Use a power sander if it’s available. Ensure you roughen up the corners and edges of your tub.

Sanding is very important because it ensures the epoxy coating adheres to the surface area properly without showing any crack or peel. After that, wipe the tub with paper towels to ensure it’s completely dry. Then, remove any excess dust or paper residue using a tack cloth.

Mix the Epoxy Coating

The key to success is in how you mix your epoxy coating. Make sure it’s well blended before applying it to your tub. You’ll have 30 minutes to work with the product, so following the manufacturer’s instructions is important. 

Paint the Tub

If you know how to paint bathrooms and other surfaces like tile and drywall, then you’ll have no problem with this step. The epoxy forms an ultra-thick, high gloss finish that’s completely waterproof. Finish the edges as required with the sponge brush, then apply a second coat of coatings as directed by the manufacturer. Before applying the second coating, you may recoat immediately or wait for one to two hours of drying time.

Paint the Tub
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Let the Coating Dry Completely

This could take 3 to 6 hours depending on climate conditions – warmer climates mean shorter drying times. You can speed up the process by using an exhaust fan. Let the tub dry and cure as indicated on the label. Make sure your working site is well ventilated to prevent inhalation of vapors.

pply the Second Coat

Sponge on another coat as required by the manufacturer’s instructions. You can do this after 3 to 6 hours, depending on climate conditions. If you wait too long, it could affect adhesion, so consider the drying time before applying your second coating. Let this dry completely and apply a third coating if required by the label.

Caulk and Reinstall the Hardware

Seal your tub’s joints with fresh silicone caulk and let it cure overnight. Then, reinstall your faucet hardware. Your refinished tub is now ready to use, so run yourself a nice, warm bath.

After bathtub refinishing, it’s best to avoid abrasive cleaners to protect your surface. Instead, go for non-abrasive and bleach-free cleaners such as cast iron and porcelain cleaners. 

Call Professional Bathtub Refinishing Company

If you want to avoid the trouble of doing this job yourself, consider professional refinishing since their years of experience in bathtub reglazing can help get your old tub looking new. Professional tub refinishers market their process as reglazing. Their standard will look similar to DIY refinishing kits, but they’ll spend more time and money repairing chips and cracks.

FAQs on How to Refinish the Tub

How long does bathtub reglazing take?

Professional refinishers will complete the job within a day and can seal your tub before you head to bed.

When is the best time to reglaze your bathtub?

You can reglaze your bathtub anytime, but if you’re looking for the least messy option, do it on or before the winter months because it’s usually cold outside, and tile grout dries quickly.

Final Thought on How to Refinish the Tub

As you can see, refinishing the tub is a great option for anyone looking to update their bathroom’s refurbishing. Just ensure that you are aware of the steps involved, so you have enough time to prepare for it.

The post How To Refinish The Tub appeared first on Kitchen Infinity.

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